An Adventurer’s Guide to Winter Along BC’s Southern Highway
Temperatures hovered at -15 C, the coldest yet of our Winnipeg to Vancouver road trip, but we jumped on fat bikes and pedalled along the Elk River in Fernie to get the juices flowing. Mount Fernie formed a magnificent backdrop on this sunny January day in the Kootenay Rockies. After three days driving across the prairies in our Subaru Crosstrek, we embraced winter’s chill and started our adventures with a day of biking and skiing in Fernie.
As Manitobans who rent a cabin on Vancouver Island for part of the winter, my husband Mark and I intentionally chose to be active on a leisurely weeklong drive taking in BC’s pass rich Highway 3, instead of facing white-out roads and snowy streets in record time to our destination. From Fernie to Rossland to Osoyoos and Manning Park, we stopped and took time to bike, snowshoe, Nordic ski and walk. This transformed the trip into a fun winter adventure.
Day One: Fernie
At the heart of the Rockies, scenic, tranquil Fernie hosts skiers from across Canada and around the world, who come to notch off Fernie Alpine Resort along with other ski hills on BC’s Powder Highway. Most people downhill ski—which we’ll try next time. But we wanted to focus on the multitude of non downhill activities once we reached the Kootenays.
Following easy directions from the friendly folks at GearHub, where we rented bikes and skis, we cycled right from the shop to reach the raised path along the river. The air was crisp, but it was wonderful to pedal along the frozen river, a stunning foreground to the ubiquitous towering peaks. We bike in summer back home and found the ice biking, new to us, easy. The fat bikes had a good grip as they crunched over the snow packed trail, relaxing us while we laughed at the sheer morning beauty.
Back in the car and hungry, we headed to Big Bang Bagels for lunch. If you finish Da Bomb, a bagel the equivalent of four breakfast bagels, you’ll get your name on a wall of fame. For us, the Funky Chicken Bagelwich on a pesto spinach bagel, one of the 15 varieties available, was deliciously sufficient in this hopping local establishment.
Fortified, but tired from our morning bike ride, we opted for a quick loop skiing the well-groomed trails at Fernie Golf Course. Many of the locals were doing the same, oblivious to their alpine surroundings.
For dinner, we enjoyed tasty lobster ravioli paired with a crisp Okanagan Valley Pinot Gris at The Loaf before a soak in the hot tub at Park Place Lodge.
Day Two: Rossland Red Hot
The drive to Rossland, a half hour detour south off Highway 3, was like riding through a Christmas card with stunning snow laden passes, swooping valleys and frozen roadside waterfalls. Rossland, once a 42-saloon gold mining town, now draws outdoor enthusiasts with its sunny 3,850 acre terrain and unpretentious vibe.
The Josie Hotel proved a luxurious base, with tony suites, boutique spa and cedar barrel saunas with bubble windows facing one of RED Mountain Ski Resort’s four mountains of terrain.
Just 10 minutes past Rossland, on the left past the Seven Summits sign, we snowshoed up to Eagle’s Nest Cabin, one of the 13 cabins managed by Friends of the Rossland Range. Branches sparkled on that brilliant day, an outdoor gallery of fragile glass shapes. While incredibly happy dogs bounded about at the summit, we marvelled at the blueness over the “Kootenay Sea,” an expanse of clouds down below.
Day Three: From the Desert to a Snowy Park
Deep snowbanks flanked the highway when we left Rossland enroute to Osoyoos. Then a glassy, not-yet-frozen Christina Lake popped into view. Thirty kilometres later, the snow disappeared and high dry bluffs appeared. Finally, we descended down into Osoyoos after a worthwhile detour to Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre.
The next morning, we headed 15 minutes north of Osoyoos to hike a snowless Golden Mile Trail through the orchards of Tinhorn Creek Winery, a handy après-hike spot. But as the trail climbed to reveal expansive views over the orchards and valley below, the ground turned frosty and snow fluttered from the treetops, yet another indication of how quickly the weather changes here.
As we continued our road trip, the road climbs and dips from Princeton, winding its way to Manning Park, revealing yet more extraordinary views and one of the best places in BC for gazing skyward.
Quiet Manning Park evoked a chill throwback vibe—a place for families to be active outside less than three hours from Vancouver. Beard lichen hung from the pines as we walked a leisurely five kilometres around Lightning Lake. Mountains soared around us—a sight we were growing to love—for a perfect last walk on our Highway #3 winter trip.
After the ferry crossing to Vancouver Island, and arriving “home,” we commented on the perfect driving conditions we had almost that entire week on the move. Though Highway #3 travels through three high mountain passes in southern BC, this amazing route has a special place in our hearts—made more special with our stops along the way.
Disclaimer: The author was partially hosted by Destination British Columbia and partners.
