Desert Detour: Why Osoyoos Is BC’s Family Vacation Surprise
As we crest the hill leading into Osoyoos, I’m struck by a landscape that seems decidedly un-Canadian. Sun-baked earth, prickly pear cacti, and a shimmering lake surrounded by arid slopes create a scene more reminiscent of the American Southwest than British Columbia. My nine-year-old son Nayam presses his face against the car window, eyes wide with youthful curiosity.
“Are we still in Canada?” he asks, echoing my own sense of surprise.
This unique corner of Canada challenges preconceptions, offering a blend of rare ecology, extensive Indigenous heritage, and world-class wine-making. This distinctive combination makes Osoyoos a standout destination for travellers seeking the unexpected. Our family adventure in Osoyoos, based at the stunning Spirit Ridge Resort, promises to be unlike any other Canadian vacation we’ve experienced.
A Place with Deep Roots
Osoyoos, whose name derives from the Indigenous Okanagan word “soo-yoos,” meaning “narrowing of the waters,” has a millennia-long history. The Okanagan people, part of the Interior Salish group, have called this land home since time immemorial. They developed sophisticated techniques to harvest food and medicine from the unique ecosystem, creating an enduring culture inextricably intertwined with the land.
Interestingly, Osoyoos holds the title for Canada’s warmest annual temperature. With an average daily maximum temperature of 17 C (62.6 F), it starkly contrasts the snowy landscapes often associated with Canada. As Nayam is excited to learn, this region’s unique environment also provides an ideal habitat for the Western rattlesnake (Crotalus oreganus).
A Unique Ecosystem
Our first stop is the Osoyoos Desert Centre, an ecological interpretive facility and 27-hectare nature preserve that offers a fascinating glimpse into this rare habitat through its elevated boardwalk guided tours and educational programs. The centre provides visitors with an immersive experience in antelope brush ecology.
Here, we learn that despite its desert-like appearance, Osoyoos is not, technically, a desert. The area is classified as a semi-arid shrub-steppe ecosystem, receiving just enough precipitation to avoid actual desert status. The area is home to nearly half of British Columbia’s endangered species.
Ripley Schubert, a conservation guide at the centre, explains the common misconception. “People expect sand dunes, like the Sahara,” he says. “But this ecosystem is far more complex. Despite its looks, it’s more biodiverse than any forest in BC.”
As we walk along the elevated boardwalk, winding through antelope brush, bunch grass, and prickly pear cacti, Ripley points out species found nowhere else in Canada. Western fence lizards scurry across the path, and we’re told to keep an eye out for the elusive rattlesnake.
“This place is special because it’s home to many plant and animal species you won’t find anywhere else in Canada,” Ripley adds. His enthusiasm is contagious, and I find myself seeing the landscape with new eyes, appreciating its hidden complexity.
Adventures for Every Taste
Osoyoos offers a wide range of outdoor activities for visitors of all ages. One afternoon, we rent bikes from Sessions Outdoor Sports and tackle the Irrigation Canal Walkway, a 4.3-kilometre paved loop that provides unique views of the town’s diverse landscape. Nayam races ahead, his earlier questions about deserts forgotten as he revels in the freedom of the open trail.
For bird enthusiasts, the area is part of the BC Bird Trail, with over 250 species recorded around Road 22 at the north end of Osoyoos Lake. Though our visit is too brief for serious birding, we spot several species we’ve never seen before, even in our home province.
The warm waters of Osoyoos Lake also beckon. We spend an afternoon kayaking along the shoreline of the warmest freshwater lake in Canada, marvelling at the contrast between the azure water and the arid hills rising above. For those seeking more adrenaline-pumping activities, options abound, from wakeboarding and jet-skiing on the lake to horseback riding with Sun Hills Riding Centre in the surrounding hills. And for an old-fashioned dose of family-friendly fun, head to Rattlesnake Canyon Amusement Park for go-kart racing and a spin on the Tilt-a-Whirl—a ride I haven’t attempted since I was about Nayam’s age.
As night falls, visitors can discover another of Osoyoos’ natural wonders. The area’s low light pollution makes it an ideal spot for stargazing, especially from the Anarchist Mountain Lookout, which offers spectacular celestial shows when the weather is clear. The Milky Way stretches across the sky, and shooting stars are a common sight.
Land of Liquid Gold
The same unique climate that creates Osoyoos’ rare ecosystem also makes it an ideal location for viticulture. Numerous vineyards dot the landscape, offering everything from intimate tasting rooms to large-scale operations with restaurants and tours. Among the most noteworthy are Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, LaStella Winery and Nk’Mip Cellars, North America’s first Indigenous-owned winery, where the blend of traditional knowledge and modern techniques produces wines that truly capture the essence of this unique region.
Indigenous Heritage
A visit to Osoyoos would only be complete with exploring its distinctive cultural legacy. We dedicate a morning to the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre, a state-of-the-art interpretive center showcasing the fascinating traditions of the Osoyoos Indian Band through indoor and outdoor exhibits.
The centre’s event coordinator, Leanne Lees, guides us through exhibits showcasing millennia of Indigenous knowledge and adaptation to this challenging environment. “Many people aren’t aware of how long the Osoyoos Indian Band has been here,” Leanne explains. “They’ve been here since time immemorial.”
Walking the interpretive trails and exploring the exhibits, we begin to fully appreciate the intricate relationship between the land and its original inhabitants. Leanne emphasizes that the centre is about more than just preserving history. “It’s about sharing our story, our connection to the land, and our vision for the future,” she says. “We hope visitors leave with a deeper understanding of the desert environment, the Syilx people’s culture, and the Okanagan language’s significance.”
A Taste of the Okanagan
On our final evening, we dine at Spirit Ridge Resort’s The Bear, the Fish, the Root & the Berry. The menu honours the Syilx People’s creation stories through dishes inspired by their revered Four Food Chiefs. Here, bison and salmon celebrate Skamxist (Black Bear) and Ntytykxw (Chinook Salmon), while bitterroot and Saskatoon berries pay tribute to Speetlum and Seeya, offering a culinary journey into the rich traditions of the Okanagan Nation.
As we depart the following day, I’m struck by how this pocket of BC has upended my notions of Canadian landscapes. Its semi-arid hills, rich Indigenous culture, and world-class wineries offer an experience that feels foreign yet is distinctly Canadian. It’s the kind of place that nudges you to return and discover more of its subtle charms. And who knows? Maybe next time, Nayam will finally spot that elusive rattlesnake—preferably from a safe distance.
Planning your visit to Osoyoos
Getting Here
From Kelowna: Approximately 2 hours (130 kilometres)
From Vancouver: Approximately 4.5 hours (395 kilometres)
Where to Eat
Gino’s Coffee House and Junction 3 Coffee House (for breakfast and lunch)
Campo Marina and La Marqueza Mexican Tacos & Market
15 Park Bistro at Watermark Beach Resort and The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry at Spirit Ridge Resort (fine dining)
More Ideas
Hiking in the nearby mountains: Tthe nʕaylintn (McIntyre Bluff) Trail has breathtaking views of the surrounding vineyards, orchards, and the Okanagan Valley. Mount Kobau Trail, part of the South Okanagan Grasslands Protected Area, offers equally stunning vistas.
Golfing at Osoyoos Golf Club through late fall, often into early November, depending on the weather.
Cycling year-round along the International Hike and Bike Trail, which runs from Osoyoos along the east side of Osoyoos Lake to Oroville, Washington.
Best time to visit: Late spring to early fall for warm weather activities and wine touring; winter for skiing at nearby Mt. Baldy.
This article was sponsored by Destination Osoyoos
Breathe the fresh air. Soak in the natural light. Connect with nature. #OsoyoosBC
