Hike in France off the Coast of Newfoundland
I’ve never been to France, so finding out I could step foot onto French territory using the easternmost province in Canada as a gateway had me cocking my head with curiosity. Twenty-five kilometres off the southern coast of Newfoundland and Labrador sits a little piece of France, discovered by the Portuguese navigator Joãn Áólvares Fagundes in 1520 and then claimed for France by Jacques Cartier in 1536. Long before that, these islands were home to Indigenous people known as the Beothuk (which means awake), who inhabited Newfoundland for several thousand years before European colonization. Fishermen from Brittany, Normandy and the Basque Country founded the town of Saint-Pierre. Their descendants still live on the archipelago today. The Acadians later came and chose Miquelon as their home.
The French archipelago of Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon is an overseas self-governing territory and the last remaining vestige of the former colony of New France. It boasts the only French boreal forest in the world and features awe-inspiring scenery that gifts wanderers the opportunity for a vantage point of both land and sea. Walks, hikes and treks are a popular way to explore this unique destination—and it’s only a short flight or ferry ride from Newfoundland.
I visited in early September, which is ideal for comfortable hiking weather. Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon being so close to Canadian soil is what piqued my interest to explore this French archipelago—the unexpected navigation across dramatic landscapes is what will keep me coming back.
Bonjour, Saint-Pierre
I enjoy hiking. There’s something about being in nature that drowns out the noise of the everyday hustle and bustle. However, I’m not an eight-hour, 90-degree incline “intense-hiker”, which is why I appreciate the different trail and trek options this French territory has to offer.
Take in Saint-Pierre’s unique biodiversity and architecture by hiking up a hill just behind the town inhabited by 6,000 residents. Beginning at the town square, the trek to the top takes about 25 minutes and is well worth it. The l’Anse à Pierre lookout not only delights the eyes with panoramic views of colourful Saint-Pierre, but you could also spot Sailor’s Island—and on a clear day, the coast of Newfoundland!
Just outside of town, a short car ride takes me from the heartbeat of Saint-Pierre to a serene corner of the island. A long boardwalk loops passed grassy knolls and a rugged landscape, and I can hear the Atlantic Ocean lapping against the rocky shoreline. The Diamant circumnavigates a three-and-a-half-kilometre loop, which takes about an hour and a half to complete. Make sure to include stoppage time at benches and picnic tables strategically placed to savour the scenic moment. Veering off the main path is Savoyard Beach, where, during the warmer months, you can go swimming in the Savoyard Pond. It’s the ideal spot to catch a sunset.
Saint-Pierre’s natural harbour has been an attractive base for large fishing and trading vessels since the 16th century. From St. Pierre, a 10-minute boat ride aboard the P’tit Gravier brings me to IIe aux Marins—Mariners Island—offering a glimpse into the rich fishing heritage of Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon. It’s like time stands still here. The long grass and the rugged rolling hills frame the colourful houses and buildings—the remains from a bygone era.
The trail runs around the island, weaving paths that lead to the former school turned museum, church and the old cemetery. It is eerily peaceful. All I can hear is the wind blowing, almost mimicking the bird’s singing overhead, and the sounds of the fierce ocean lapping the shores below. Our guide Elea told us that the fishermen were known as “Pieds Rouges” (Red Feet), garnering their name from fishing in the cold Atlantic waters.
Oh, My Miquelon!
A 90-minute ferry ride takes me from St. Pierre to the village of Miquelon. Inhabited by 600 people, Miquelon has been the center of the archipelago’s agricultural activities and coastal fishing scene since the 19th century.
Known as the nature island, Miquelon is linked to Langlade—also known as Little Miquelon—by a 12-kilometre-long sandy isthmus (called La Dune), which formed and connected these two islands in the 18th century. Taking Langlade Road, approximately 15 kilometres from Miquelon, you’ll arrive at the isthmus that connects Miquelon to Langlade. To the right, the ocean is magnificent as I take in its beauty and raw, magnetic force. To the left, farther down on the fertile land of the Dunes, the Grand Barachois Lagoon boasts turquois water and is where chatter of wildlife and pristine natural beauty can be found. The walk takes a few hours, depending on your pace and how many times you stop to take everything in. The dunes can make for an uneven walk so be sure to pack your sturdy shoes, along with trail snacks and plenty of water.
From the main town of Miquelon, another 15-kilometre ride takes you to Le Chapeau. There are designated parking spots and marked signs will lead you to the path.
This hiking trail deserves a hat tip, indeed. Le Chapeau offers breathtaking beauty with its natural scenic landscape—in the shape of a hat. The diverse flora and fauna form lusciously around every winding corner of this trail, surrounded by panoramic views of both land and sea. It’s a landscape that is authentically unapologetic for its ruggedness, yet Le Chapeau is a place where serenity and tranquility meet. It’s an immersive experience for all senses. And for bird lovers, there are several species that can be found here. The best part? It’s a trail that can be enjoyed by everyone, from avid hikers to nature-lovers just looking to traverse incredible landscapes—like me.
How to get here: From St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador, a 45-minute flight aboard Air Saint-Pierre will get you from St. John’s International Airport to Saint Pierre-Pointe Blanche Airport. Alternatively, you can take the aquatic route aboard the SPM Ferries which takes 90 minutes from Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, to Saint-Pierre.
When to go: May to October is the ideal time to visit Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon as the warmer months offer better conditions and the trails are easier to access.
Thank you for the beautiful write up on our neighbors 💞
It is a little piece of haven. When travelling there, make sure you spend some time on the beautiful Burin Peninsula.!