Hike to the Site of Canada’s Most Famous Painting
In 1913, a young Algonquin Park fire ranger had his first public exhibit with the Ontario Society of Artists. That man was Tom Thomson, and over the course of the next four years, his brushstrokes would defy the critics, enthrall the public, inspire a generation and redefine Canadian art. Thomson’s emotional and evocative renderings of Algonquin Park reflect his love of the land and passion for nature. Between his first exhibition and his untimely death on Canoe Lake in 1917, Thomson produced hundreds of small sketches and oil paintings inspired by his time in Algonquin Park.
One of those paintings, The Jack Pine, would become Canada’s most famous work of art.
The Jack Pine is so much more than a picture of a tree. Group of Seven painter Lawren Harris said, “The devotional mood of The Jack Pine is the same as in Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna and Child.” It’s the kind of artwork that, when you’re looking at it, makes it impossible to lie to yourself. I know because, long ago, I volunteered at The Jack Pine’s home, the National Gallery of Canada. There’s no better way to work through whatever jumbled thoughts are in your head than to fix your eyes upon a great piece of art.
Well, no better way, save for going for a hike.
Art lovers, outdoor enthusiasts and history students can hike to the very spot where Thomson painted The Jack Pine. At Algonquin Provincial Park’s Achray Campground, you’ll find the aptly named 1.6-kilometre Jack Pine Trail. It leads to the rocky outcrop where Thomson prepared the sketches for his iconic painting. During my visit, I was pleased to find that the trail is well-marked and is more of a gentle nature walk than a vigorous hike. There is a short, moderately steep incline at the end of the trail, where the path goes up over an exposed part of the Canadian Shield, but it is otherwise easy to navigate.
As I laced up my shoes and applied a generous layer of bug spray (an absolutely essential part of any visit to Algonquin Park), I couldn’t help but be amazed that I was so close to such a pivotal scene in Canadian history. Reaching the end of the trail, the woods melted away, and the clear blue waters of Grand Lake came into view. Atop the massive boulders of the Canadian Shield, scraggly pine trees grasp to get a foothold in the crevices between the rocks. For most of us, it’s a pretty scene. However, when you walk in Thomson’s footsteps, the ordinary becomes extraordinary. Where I saw an attractive lake, he saw gold and vermilion dancing across the sky and reflecting on the water. Where I see scruffy trees, he sees a metaphor for vulnerability and strength among ancient rocks and tenacious new growth. You learn to appreciate the tiny details of everyday beauty, from the slight ripple of wind on the water to the gentle, sloping arch of a tree branch. While I always felt that my thoughts were calmer, more subdued after a good walk or some time spent with art, it feels like it was the opposite for Thomson. His imagination was supercharged.
The original Jack Pine tree was discovered, long dead, by park rangers in 1970, but a new growth of trees and plants has filled in the gap, a remarkable metaphor for the enduring power of nature. A hike along the trail is nearly as good as seeing the real thing, just as seeing the original painting itself. Thomson’s The Jack Pine holds a place of pride among the National Gallery of Canada’s extensive collection. When you come around the corner and walk into the room, not knowing it’s there, it takes your breath away. The colours are even more vibrant in person than reproductions suggest, and it’s mesmerizing, the kind of piece that makes you want to sit, stare and think. And also write. I drafted this article while sitting near The Jack Pine, contemplating Thomson’s tremendous relationship with art and nature, as well as my own. I wonder what he would think about these dual legacies, a hike and a gallery wall devoted to this one tree. I can’t help but think he would be thrilled, not for his own recognition but to know that so many people are exploring the park and the art world he so adored.
You can visit The Jack Pine with a regular admission ticket to the National Gallery of Canada, which offers free visits on Thursday nights. The piece is often included on gallery tours. Those who can’t make it to Ottawa can see Thomson’s preparatory work for The Jack Pine in Niagara-On-The-Lake’s RiverBrink Art Museum. The Jack Pine Trail is accessible via regular admission to Algonquin Park, and there is ample free parking near the trailhead.
A nice story. Too bad about the weather, but that’s Algonquin for you.