How I Hiked One Of The World’s Toughest Treks
The Snowman Trek in Bhutan is often referred to as “one of the toughest treks in the world,” but no title can fully capture what it means to complete it. For me and my hiking partner, Sam Plavins, the 18-day trek became a journey of resilience, discovery and connection—not just to the towering peaks and glacial valleys of Bhutan, but to ourselves, the people and the stories woven into the land.
Spanning over 320 kilometres and crossing numerous high mountain passes—some over 5,000 metres—the Snowman Trek is a physical challenge unlike any I’ve faced before. Each day pushed my boundaries of endurance, with stretches of the trail climbing steep switchbacks along craggy ridgelines or skirting icy paths carved into sheer mountainsides. With most days spent over 4,000 metres above sea level, the Snowman Trek challenges even the most experienced hikers.
The thin air, relentless ascents and frozen mornings were constant reminders of how small we are in the face of nature’s grandeur. Yet it was in these challenges that I found something deeper: a sense of profound humility and strength that only the mountains can evoke.
Physical Challenge
From the moment we began, the Snowman Trek presented a series of physical challenges that stretched our limits. The steep, rocky terrain tested us daily, with some days requiring us to ascend more than 1,000 metres only to descend just as sharply. The sun burned our lips and any visible skin not consistently layered in sunscreen. If it wasn’t the sun, it was the bitter wind that would burn our cheeks, leaving our skin feeling dry and sore to the touch. Some days were grueling—descending knee-busting trails, battling stomach bugs or navigating rivers swollen by glacial melt.
One of the most daunting days was the climb to Richen Zoe La, a high pass standing at 5,320 metres. The air was incredibly thin, forcing us to move slowly but steadily, each step deliberate and measured. As we ascended, I’d occasionally glance up to catch fleeting glimpses of the snowy peaks adorned with glaciers, but I never stopped—my rhythm couldn’t afford to break, except when the convoy of ponies and horses, carrying our camp supplies, needed to pass. The wind howled over the mountain tops, and in the distance, I could hear the gentle clinking of the ponies’ bells, their steady march behind us a reminder of the team effort it takes to reach such a remote place.
At the top of the pass, prayer flags fluttered in the wind, their vibrant colors standing in stark contrast to the icy peaks surrounding us. Reaching such a remote corner of the world, knowing only the toughest few could make it here, gave every hard-fought step added meaning. With each breath, the views became more precious, and the moments of rest even sweeter.
A Cultural Journey
The Snowman Trek is not just a feat of endurance; it’s a cultural journey. Bhutan is a country that treasures its natural environment and spiritual heritage, and this philosophy resonates deeply along the trail.
The route winds though Bhutan’s wilderness, weaving through lush valleys and scaling rugged, barren peaks. Every few days, we encountered remote villages, their clusters of stone homes tucked into terraced hillsides. Among them, Laya stood out–a high-altitude settlement brimming with character and warmth. Women in traditional Layap attire, dressed in yak wool and crowned with distinctive conical hats, greeted us with radiant smiles as they went about their daily routines.
As we continued along the trail, passing through more high-altitude villages in the weeks that followed, the traditional attire evolved with each community, reflecting the diversity of Bhutan’s culture. Yet, one thing remained constant: the unwavering kindness and joy of the people we met along the way. The local highlanders exuded kindness and generosity, offering stories or inviting us in for cups of hot chai tea. Their warmth didn’t seem to be just reserved for visitors; it seemed to reflect a deep respect for one another and the natural world—a quiet undercurrent of harmony that resonated throughout the trek.
Guided by Tradition
It wasn’t just the local highlanders who embodied Bhutan’s rich culture and traditions; our guides also seamlessly wove their rituals into daily life, offering us a profound and authentic glimpse into their heritage. Through their practices, they not only enriched our journey, but they influenced our understanding of Bhutan’s cultural essence in every step.
One morning stands out vividly in my memory. We woke to the embers of the previous night’s fire still glowing faintly in the pit. Our guide, Tshiltrium, knelt by the coals, carefully placing sticks of incense into the ash. As he chanted mantras for our happiness and protection, the soft smoke curled upward, blending with the crisp morning air. We began our hike that day under the rhythm of his soft, steady chanting, carrying his blessings with us as we climbed.
Even in the remoteness of the highlands, moments like these reminded me of the deep connection between the Bhutanese people and the spiritual world around them. Each step along the trail felt steeped in purpose, a reflection of the culture’s deep-rooted respect for balance and harmony.
Trail Community
The Snowman Trek also taught me about teamwork and perseverance. Hiking with Sam was a reminder of the power of shared experience. On difficult days, her strength carried me forward, and on others, I did the same for her. Together, we celebrated each small victory—whether it was navigating a tricky descent, spotting a Himalayan blue sheep, or simply enjoying a spicy bowl of ramen after a long day.
Both our bond and the kindness of the Bhutanese people shaped our journey. The trail community felt like an extension of Bhutan’s emphasis on connection, proving that even in the most remote places, we’re never truly alone.
A Transformative Experience
Looking back, completing the Snowman Trek in 18 days, camping in freezing temperatures next to glacial lakes and hiking amongst some of Bhutan’s most sacred mountains feels like both an accomplishment and a gift. It was a rare opportunity to walk through some of the most remote and stunning landscapes on Earth, while learning from a culture that values happiness and harmony above all else. Bhutan’s mountains don’t just challenge you physically; they invite you to look inward, to reflect on the life you’ve built and the person you want to become.
As our trek came to an end, I realized that it wasn’t just the landscapes or the culture that had shaped this journey—it was the people who shared it with us, and the lessons we carried forward. Now that the trek is behind us, its lessons continue to unfold. It’s a reminder that the most meaningful journeys are rarely easy, but they are always worth it.
For those willing to take on the Snowman Trek, it offers far more than beautiful views—it offers transformation.
