How Indigenous Teachings Transformed My Time on Vancouver Island
The water gently lapped against the sides of our tandem kayak as it skimmed across the open ocean toward Saysutshun (Newcastle Island), a provincial marine park on Vancouver Island near Nanaimo, British Columbia. As my partner Garrett and I paddled, I found myself thinking back to a conversation the evening before with Elder Dave Bodaly, a Snuneymuxw knowledge keeper and storyteller.
I’ve always been drawn to learning about local Indigenous cultures in the places I visit, so this meeting was important to me. I usually learned from a distance, through museums, exhibits and signage, but sitting with someone whose family has lived in the area for generations was different. It felt personal.
Elder Dave spoke about the importance of staying present. “When you travel, you are not just passing through a place but entering into a relationship with it,” he said. He reminded us to pay attention to the water and the land, because connection begins with noticing.
The things he shared about the Snuneymuxw beliefs and ways of living stuck with me. As we pushed away from shore and began to paddle, I decided I wanted to move through the day slowly. Noticing, listening and being fully present.
But when we left the protection of the harbour, the wind picked up, the ocean shifted and the waves became treacherous. My plan to be slow and mindful turned into a very concentrated effort to not capsize the kayak. We battled the sudden storm for about a half hour until we finally got to the other, more protected side of the island where we decided to paddle to shore and explore on foot.
Back on land, I remembered my decision to feel more connected to the land, and I realized what Elder Dave meant. Presence isn’t something you choose to do once, it’s a feeling you return to again and again. I carried this realization with me as we continued our road trip to Tofino.
Exploring the Coast with Intention
Along the way, we stopped at Cathedral Grove, an ancient old-growth forest. The Douglas firs and Western Red Cedars in this grove are massive, including some that are over 800 years old. Standing among them, I reflected again on Elder Dave’s teachings, and here, through the quiet and stillness, it felt easier to slow down. Before this trip, I often explored with more of a checklist mindset, usually focused on getting to the viewpoint instead of really taking in what was around me. I wasn’t timing myself, but I also wasn’t really slowing down either. At Cathedral Grove something shifted, I noticed the vibrant green moss hanging from the cedar branches and the slow, rhythmic dripping of rainwater collecting on needles. That feeling stayed with me as we continued west towards the coast.
The next morning, we woke to sunlight pouring into the large windows of our room at the Wickaninnish Inn near Chesterman Beach in Tofino. The mist had lifted, and the sun made the water sparkle and the shoreline look crisp. We had planned to join Ahous Adventures on a tour to learn about the Ahousaht culture and way of life and explore their traditional territories, but nature had other plans. We were informed that the swell would be too large, and we’d be unable to take the boat out on the ocean. I immediately felt the disappointment that comes when an experience falls through that you were especially looking forward to, but I remembered another teaching Elder Dave emphasized: Move through the land with respect. Don’t force your way through it. The ocean was telling us to stay on the land, and we needed to listen.
So instead of seeing this as a setback, we looked at it as redirection and pivoted to exploring more of the land, opting for a hike in Pacific Rim National Park on the beautiful, sunny day. We chose the Canso Plane Crash trail, a 7.9-kilometre hike that takes you through a mossy old-growth forest and across wooden bridges before reaching the rusted remnants of a World War II airplane crash landing site. After so much rain, the trail was muddy and slick, tree roots intertwined throughout the trail requiring us to watch our step and, in some instances, climb and balance on roots to avoid the muddy puddles. Beams of sunlight filtered through the towering cedars and looked like a veil of sunshine while drops of water slowly fell from the branches.
Arriving at the airplane almost felt symbolic. Again, Indigenous teachings echoed in my head. The plane parts nestled into the mossy forest ground with roots and trees intertwined over its body. Bits and pieces of it were scattered around the site, slowly being reclaimed by the land. It reminded me that the land moves at its own pace and that we are just spectators invited to witness and move with respect.
What the Land Taught Me
Our journey on Vancouver Island ended with a sunset walk on Tinwis Beach (pronounced ti-nu-wis). Formerly known as MacKenzie Beach, the original Indigenous name that means “calming waters” or “calm beach” in the Tla-o-qui-aht language was recently restored. As Garrett and I walked along the warm, soft sands, I thought about the importance of acknowledging that places hold history and identity. By being present in these places, we acknowledge and honour that history. As I noticed the gentle lapping of waves against the sand and watched critters moving around in tidepools, I thought about Elder Dave’s teachings and how they will continue to shape the way I explore the world.
Where to Stay and Eat
Nanaimo
Where to Stay: Courtyard by Marriott Nanaimo, owned by the Snuneymuxw First Nation. This hotel offers comfortable rooms and is a great way to support Indigenous-owned businesses while staying on the waterfront.
Where to Eat: Gabriel’s Gourmet Café, a local breakfast and lunch café that offers farm-to-fork food with fresh, local ingredients; Black Rabbit Kitchen, a cozy spot for seasonal, local meals that offers comfort food and creative dishes.
Tofino
Where to Stay: Wickaninnish Inn, our stay here was phenomenal. From the spectacular coastal views to the impeccable attention to detail and service. It’s a great hotel to feel immersed in the land.
Where to Eat: Shelter Restaurant, a local hub highlighting Pacific Northwest ingredients. It was one of our favourite meals; The Pointe Restaurant, a more luxurious experience, The Pointe is a great option for a special occasion or sunset dinner, plus brunch is also amazing here.
