Ice Canoeing in Quebec City: A Challenge of Physical, Mental and Emotional Resilience
“How many layers do you have on?” My crewmate asks me as we set to tackle the icy St. Lawrence River.
“Five,” I respond. He chuckles.
Running on adrenaline, and the strength of two hardboiled eggs, my mind adds confusion to the mix. Am I ready for this? Is he just messing with me? I was about to find out exactly what ice canoeing was—and the impacts it would have on my physical, mental, emotional and psychological well-being. I was all in, ready for a Canadian-inspired, bucket-list adventure of a lifetime.
During the summer months, Quebec City’s waterfront is a lovely oasis featuring calm waters and beautiful cruises, romantic riverside strolls and Chateau views. While the winter season brings a unique charm to the city’s storied streets, it also gets downright frigid. Unwilling to cower and hide from nature’s windchill wrath, Quebecers head outside and make the most of the coldest stretch of the year, which in these parts, includes ice canoeing across the mighty St. Lawrence. What began in the 1600s as a practical means of transportation to cross the river has turned into one of the city’s most celebrated winter traditions, uniting the global community during its famed Carnaval de Quebec. Personally, I’m not a big fan of winter, but when you’re offered a chance to experience both the festival and ice canoeing in one shot, I was going to do everything in my power to embrace it. Inspired, I packed my warmest gear and set off for the frozen St. Lawrence, eager to seize the day, join in the fun and test my limits paddling through the mix of open water and ice.
Historically, Indigenous peoples and early settler communities used ingenious methods to make the trek and cross the St. Lawerence no matter the season or obstacle. Trade, connection and survival depended on it. As time forged forward, so did advanced modes of transport, namely steamships and bridges. By the late 19th century, ice canoeing was no longer an integral mode of transport, and in turn, became part of the Quebec Winter Carnival. Every year, ice canoeing has become a mainstay in the city’s winter sports scene, and throughout February, a series of races comprised of dozens of teams compete to win the Cup of Mirrors. It’s not for the faint of heart, and the journey is undoubtedly hard; after all, portaging on dry land is one thing, but navigating a canoe on sheets of ice is another. As arduous as it is, participants often reflect about their collective bond, fighting through the agony, gathering strength from the community and their teammates, pushing through with sheer perseverance and feeling that rush of exhilaration when crossing the finish line.
As a spectator, this event is fascinating to watch. But for the untrained and out of shape like me, tour operator Canot à Glace Expérience offers a variety of packages for those curious to experience the sport without the competitive element. Having run marathons before, I knew that smart preparation included a light but protein-rich meal and, of course, layering was key! After all, I was about to join a determined group of like-minded enthusiasts and navigate a canoe along jagged ice slabs and bone-numbing water all while paddling against the river’s pull.
Guests can choose from a sunset ice canoeing experience, family package, even one that includes a visit to the luxurious Strom Nordic Thermal Spa nearby. All excursions are guided and curated to match the guests’ physical abilities. They include a presentation of the activity, training and specialized equipment.
Fun, memorable and, above all, educational, I learned quickly that individual heroics mean very little when ice canoeing. Instead, it’s a team effort with an emphasis on motivating and trusting your mates, moving in sync to propel the canoe forward across shifting ice fields, then paddling in rhythm once afloat. Having the physical stamina to do this is one important aspect, but combining muscle strength with mental tenacity, emotional grit and psychological determination allowed me to push through fatigue and exhaustion. Full disclosure: It’s a taxing but rewarding experience, no matter how much you prepare.
Ice canoeing is done only in the province of Quebec. In fact, it’s considered to be the safest way to enjoy the St. Lawrence River during the winter. So beloved, it has become an annual tradition that not only renews Quebec’s winter-proud personality but serves as a communal gathering that both celebrates and honours the enduring spirit and fortitude of ancient cultures. Crowds along the rivers’ icy banks cheer for competitors who’ve come together from all walks of life and diverse backgrounds to take part in a festive competition that reflects heart, heritage and a living thread in Quebec’s cultural tapestry, all of which shine brightly within the city’s vibrant winter spirit.
