Nova Scotia’s Keji National Park: The Complete Outdoor Experience

For me, a national park is a national treasure, and our beloved country is loaded with them. On a recent visit to Nova Scotia, I was eager to visit one of Eastern Canada’s most popular national parks: Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site is an all-in-one scenic gem that offers stunning coastal adventures and immersive inland activities sprinkled with a rich cultural past and ample stargazing opportunities. “It’s the perfect size for visitors to enjoy a little bit of everything,” says Parks Canada’s Promotions Officer Krista Lingley. “The sounds of nature while you drift off to sleep is calming zen.”

Past visitors have proven that ‘Keji,’ as it’s affectionately known, isn’t a place you visit just once. In fact, with a return rate of over 90 per cent, it’s consistently one of the most popular parks in the country. Located within three municipalities in southwest Nova Scotia, Keji consists of two separate land areas—inland and oceanside—approximately 100 kilometres apart. Granted its national park status in 1969, it was also designated as a National Historic Site in 1995 thanks to its storied Mi’kmaw cultural roots, making it the first national park to have dual status. “The only inland national park in the Atlantic region, Keji truly is a hidden gem,” says Lingley, “and it’s only a two-hour drive west of Halifax.”

While I can hear the ocean calling, my yearning for history is a siren song I can’t resist, especially regarding Indigenous history. Although the park offers a guided Petroglyphs Paddle, an experience that involves a group paddling together in a big canoe on Kejimkujik Lake en route to a restricted petroglyph site, I decided on a 90-minute guided walking tour led by a Parks Canada interpreter. I never would have identified the location or meaning of the millenia-old stone-carved petroglyphs without our knowledgeable guide. In awe, I get an unforgettable, engaging and immersive history lesson of the area, soaking up the fascinating Mi’kmaw culture all while being able to touch petroglyphs that illustrate life immemorial.

Inland and on water, canoe, kayak and stand up paddleboard (SUP) rentals are available and visitors with a National Park Fishing Permit can fish in Kejimkujik between April and August. On land, skiing and snowshoeing are popular winter activities, while in the warmer months, several geocaching series always make for a popular family activity. Watch as master Mi’kmaw craftsman Todd Labrador builds a traditional birch bark canoe, and sign up for Creature Feature, another free-for-all-ages experience showcasing the different animals, flora and fauna found in the park.

Thirteen easy-to-moderate level frontcountry hiking trails (eight of which are shared-use trails with bicycles) and two difficult, long-distance back-country trails are available for those wishing to challenge their endurance limits. While I love a good hike, I opted to rent a bike. After all, kids listed biking as their favourite thing to do at Keji. Immediately, I’m in an exhilarated state of bliss while on the scenic 2.6-kilometre Mill Falls Trail, as it hugs the historic Mersey River and rewards me with a view of Mill Falls. By this time, I’ve built up a sweat, so I hop on the 2.7-kilometre Merrymakedge Trail, knowing full well that my reward is a cool dip in Kejimkujik Lake. I stayed a while, took my time and enjoyed a Parks Canada Perfect Picnic. This initiative partners with local restaurants—in this case, Lakeview Cafe and Eatery inside Keji—providing ready-made lunches in snazzy Parks Canada picnic boxes, making for a lovely keepsake. Pro tip: the park’s newest Ukme’k shared-use trail, meaning ‘twisted’ in Mi’kmaq, connects the campground with day-use areas and offers visitors a chance to get active while immersing themselves in the Mi’kmaq cultural landscape.

At sundown, Kejimkujik National Park is home to a natural light show with some cozy campfires. The park’s one-hour Campfire Experience, led by Parks Canada interpreters, is a chance to gather for stories, songs and games. Stargazing lovers like myself can’t get enough of the park’s Dark-Sky Preserve, the only area designated by the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada (RASC) in Nova Scotia. Experience the celestial show on the water with a guided three-hour Dark-Sky Paddle or an educational one-hour guided tour on land. I was enthralled to view the bright, beautiful, panoramic night sky with the naked eye, and learn about how the stars and galaxies intertwined with and influenced Mi’kmaw culture and folklore.

Campers, rejoice as hundreds of frontcountry and back-country campsites are available throughout the park. For those looking for a bit more glam, Rustic Cabins—built in the style of early 20th-century trapper cabins—are available and include bunk beds, a picnic table and an outdoor firebox. For more of a treehouse experience, consider a duplex-style, teardrop-shaped Ôasis complete with a convertible table/bed and suspended hammock loft above. For me, the Parks Canada oTENTik did the trick. Talk about rustic with a pinch of chic and all the creature comforts of a spacious family cottage. Bonus: Kejimkujik Lake is steps away, making for a refreshing respite anytime, day or night.

Meanwhile, along the coast, Kejimkujik Seaside is a day-use park open year-round, and admission is free. On the surface, I know I’m not in the Caribbean, but looking around, I can’t help but feel a touch of tropical beach vibes blended with rugged and wild Maritime beauty. I close my eyes and take in the moment, filling my lungs with fresh ocean breezes, hiking both of the open trails, meandering between dense forest, singing white sands, turquoise blue waters and breathtaking sea views from St. Catherine’s River Beach.

How to Get Here:
To Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site:
- Address: 3005 Kejimkujik Main Parkway, Maitland Bridge, NS, Canada
- Follow NS-103 west to NS-325 north in Lunenberg
- Follow NS-325 north and NS-208 west to Trunk 8 north in South Brookfield
To Kejimkujik Seaside:
- Address: 1188 St. Catherines River Rd, Port Joli, NS, Canada
- Follow NS-103 west to Highway 3 towards Port Joli. Turn left at St. Catherines River Road
When to Go:

Kejimkujik is open year-round, but services vary. Between Victoria Day weekend and October 31, more services are available. Plan to spend a full day or several days hiking, biking or paddling at the inland park. Camping is available from May to October.
Kejimkujik Seaside is a day-use park. Admission is free. Camping is available nearby at Thomas Raddall Provincial Park. Plan to spend a half or full day exploring the trails and beach.

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Disclaimer: The author was hosted as media by Parks Canada.