Ski Forecast: The Best Mountains for Fresh Powder
Winter is coming, and ski season stoke is starting to build. But what does this winter have in store for Canadian skiers?
Forecasts all agree that this winter, we’re heading into a phenomenon known as La Niña. Historically, La Niña has been associated with colder winters across Western Canada and above-average snowfall in the mountains of British Columbia and Alberta. In the east, these years have also brought major storms with above-average snowfall.
Good news, right? Maybe. Long-term forecasts predict a weak La Niña that is expected to arrive in the fall and early winter. And the Pacific sea surface temperatures are currently quite warm, which could impact the entire system. Together, these factors could limit the system’s impact on winter weather.
Canada’s Farmers’ Almanac is calling for a wet and warm winter across much of the country. According to the publication, “while much of Canada will see milder-than-average temperatures and frequent precipitation, some regions will still experience classic Canadian snowfalls and cold snaps.”
Meteorologists at OpenSnow, a ski-focused weather forecasting service, disagree. According to a recent update to their seasonal outlook, BC and Alberta have “Above Normal” chances for higher-than-average snowfalls and colder than average temperatures. The same is true for southern Ontario and Quebec.
So, what does this mean for skiers and snowboarders? Where should you think about visiting this winter? Here are some ideas:
British Columbia
The best places to find good snow in BC this winter could be where it’s reliably colder. Close to Vancouver, that means elevation. If it’s warm, look for lifts or roads that can get you above the freezing level where rain turns into snow. Whistler Blackcomb offers the most lift-accessible elevation with more options as you travel inland.
Another option is to head north. The northern Coast Range has a reputation for epic terrain and excellent snow. Shames Resort in Terrace is a co-operatively owned ski area with both lift-access terrain and endless backcountry access. Closer to Smithers, the Hankin-Evelyn Backcountry Area is sometimes called a “no-lifts ski resort.” With 13 cut ski runs and access to vast alpine terrain, it’s a ski touring dream.
Rocky Mountains
Ski resorts in the Rocky Mountains start at a higher elevation than those closer to the coast, making it easier to get above the point where rain becomes snow.
If it’s warm and wet as the Almanac predicts, look north. Powder King Resort near the town of Mackenzie, BC, has a reputation as a hidden gem in the northern Rockies. It’s pretty far off the beaten track, but if you’re looking for uncrowded slopes and good snow, it could be the place to be this winter.
If you’re looking for a trip closer to the more well-known resorts and ski areas to the south, Golden, BC, is a good bet to base a ski trip out of. Located in the Rocky Mountain Trench, it sits in a divide. To the west is Rogers Pass, an endless buffet of ski touring and ski mountaineering terrain with notoriously deep snowpack (make sure to check out and understand Parks Canada’s winter permit system before your trip). To the east are the Rocky Mountains, where colder, drier temperatures can deliver the kind of snow skiers dream of. Usually, if the skiing is bad in one direction, it’s better in the other. It’s why so many backcountry ski guides call Golden home. And Kicking Horse Resort is just a few minutes from town.
Prairies
Let’s be honest, not many people are planning ski trips to the prairies. That’s not to knock the dozens of amazing small ski areas built on foothills and valleys throughout the flatter parts of the country. I, for one, grew up at one of these very ski areas. I learned to ski and snowboard at Snow Valley in Edmonton, AB. I worked there as a lift operator, which, if I’m being honest, may still be the best job I’ve ever had. But, despite my fondness for that tiny hill, it’s not somewhere I’m planning to head back and spend a few days any time soon.
That being said, if you live in these areas, these ski areas are the lifeblood of your season. Like I did, you dream of the bigger mountains, but spend most of your days on the local hill. The good news for these hills is that winter is supposed to start colder. Hopefully, these local hills will have a favourable window for snowmaking in case the season begins to warm up later.
Ontario and Quebec
When I was a student in Montreal, winter meant Nordic skiing (sometimes called cross-country skiing). On snowy days, I would spend quiet mornings heading up and down Mount Royal; sometimes, I even skied to class. If Open Snow is correct, conditions could be excellent on everything from backyard trails on Mount Royal to the world-class trail network in Gatineau Park.
If the Almanac’s prediction for warm and wet weather in the south turns out to be more accurate, the Gaspésie region may hold better conditions. Massif, a resort northeast of Quebec City, is worth a trip just for the views of ships navigating the ice-strewn St. Lawrence River. Ski tourers should check out les Chic-Chocs, a mountain range in the Gaspésie with a growing backcountry ski scene.
East and North
Some of the best forecasts for this winter are for the Maritimes and the southern Yukon. I don’t have much experience skiing in Atlantic Canada, but Cape Breton’s Cape Smokey Ski Area looks like a great mixture of ocean views, ski runs and East Coast vibes. For those looking for a bigger adventure, Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland is another way-off-the-beaten-track ski touring destination. Parks Canada operates two backcountry huts in the park, providing access to a wide range of terrain.
In the Yukon, ski touring is the name of the game. The best place to get started is White Pass, a few hours’ drive from Whitehorse. Located on the Yukon-Alaska border, a few hours’ drive from Whitehorse, it offers a wide range of options for backcountry skiers and is smack dab in the middle of a zone expected to get a ton of snow this winter.
At the end of the day, climate change is making long-term forecasting and winter predictions a more complicated business. The best way to find good snow is to watch the weather and be flexible in your plans. I also try always to remember that skiing, like pizza, is still pretty good, even when it’s bad.
