Superior Country: Ontario’s Best Kept Secret

While we were sad to say farewell to our kids for a week, my partner and I jumped at the opportunity to explore a stunning corner of Northwestern Ontario together.

Superior Country is an expansive region located on the shores of Lake Superior, deep within Canada’s boreal forest. It offers some of the country’s best outdoor adventures. Trail-rich parks with impossible views are around every corner (keep an eye out for Parks Canada’s iconic red Adirondack chairs—an invitation to discover some of the lesser-known views). Superior Country promised adventure, and we intended to squeeze it dry.

Photo credit Melanie Scott

I have a particular fondness for the region. My father travelled here on business for two decades and always returned with treasures from the city’s culinary gems: Thunder Oak Cheese Farm (Nettle or Dill gouda) and The Persian Man, with its pink-icing-laced donut/cinnamon-bun thingy, continue to be my favourites. Now, I can add Heartbeat Hot Sauce Co. to the list. Famous from the YouTube show Hot Ones, their hot sauce is so good that enthusiasts have even begun to cellar it.

After we fuelled up, my partner and I boarded the Frodo, a 40’ Jonmeri trans-Atlantic sailboat, to overnight in the shadow of Nanabijou, The Sleeping Giant. Aside from the hospitable and comprehensive experience provided by Sail Superior, I was there to dive the remains of the Robert L. Fryer.

Photo by Thomas Stimson

The Fryer was built in 1881 and was quite dramatically scuttled in 1930. Although the wreck was set aflame to sink it, it persevered, blew ashore and (legend has it) burned down the island it came to rest on. Even from the top deck, the wreck was haunting. Descending below, I was stirred in equal measure. Once back on solid ground, it was time to explore some of Superior Country’s renowned trails.

A highlight was the Nanabosho Lookout Trail. This short but steep 1.6-kilometre round-trip spur ascends the “chest” portion of the Sleeping Giant, leading to a viewpoint over the Sibley Peninsula above where the Frodo was anchored. We talked little atop The Giant, savoring the simple joy of watching wispy clouds tumble across the peak. There is a lot of history in this area, and it was easy to step back and reflect.

Photo credit Laura Myers

The Top of the Giant Trail, the Nipigon River Recreational Trail and Casque Isles Hiking Trail are some of the best hikes in the region. These trails deliver what adventurers call Type 1 and Type 2 Fun. Type 1 Fun is enjoyable while you’re doing it; Type 2 is not always fun in the moment but becomes so afterward, especially in the retelling.

Photo credit Deana Renaud

Popular parks like Kakabeka Falls (nicknamed the “Niagara of the North”), Rainbow Falls and Pukaskwa National Park are must-visits as well.

We explored the Nipigon River Recreational Trail, adjacent to Ruby Lake Provincial Park. Type 2 Fun indeed! Thick ropes for leverage and steep stairs led to a jaw-dropping cliffside lookout. Parks Canada has installed a wind-up machine on the platform that lets visitors hear the voices of local peregrine falcons, bald eagles and a raptor expert. I was tickled by this contraption and have been telling everyone I know about it. From the Eagle’s Ridge Viewing Platform, the countryside unfurls into sweeping watery expanses punctuated by emerald islands on one of the world’s largest freshwater lakes.

Photo by Thomas Stimson

One of the perks of being an outdoor adventure writer and photographer is the necessity of reflection. On the eight-hour drive home, I considered how Superior Country had affected me this trip. This is a place where people come to hike, climb, paddle, camp and, as I discovered, challenge themselves. Along the way, as we often do, we met new friends and fellow adventurers who embodied that notion.

We met Jim and Jackie, a couple from a small town in southern Ontario, on the trail to the top of The Giant. Jackie, recently diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis, chose Superior Country to reaffirm her strength and will. She summitted that day, and we were fortunate enough to share in that moment.

Photo by Thomas Stimson

There’s something about the rock and water in Superior Country that stays with you. The area is untamed and yet comforting and familiar; perhaps a byproduct of coming across those strategically placed red Adirondack chairs. Here, I believe we are witnessing the rise of Canada’s next big adventure tourism destination. Beyond the parks, countless unforgettable hikes and Superior-sized natural wonders await.

I learned that there is no squeezing it dry. I’ll be back many times over, always with the highest of expectations.


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