The Happy Camper: Algonquin’s East Side Is an Epic Hidden Gem
I like to characterize the east side of Algonquin Park to that of a charismatic, recluse uncle who comes to the family gatherings. No one seems to know too much about him, but if you’re lucky enough to sit down and have a chat with him, you’ll quickly realize he’s the most fascinating personality at the party.
I’ve always favoured less-intrusive family members, which is probably why the east side of Algonquin happens to be my most treasured part of the park. So, when Colin Coyle, Manager of the Town of Petawawa Tourism, sent me an invite to paddle with him and his colleague Elly Dumouchel at some of their area’s hidden gems, I jumped at the chance. I absolutely love this lesser-known part of Ontario.
My plan was a simple one. I set up camp at a backcountry site on Sec Lake on the eastern border of Algonquin Park. It’s near the Sand Lake Gate House. There’s over a dozen backcountry canoe sites to choose from, and a few others on the neighbouring Mallard Lake. I chose the walk-in site about 100 metres or so from the boat launch. It worked well for me since each day of my visit, I’d be doing something with the gang from the Town of Petawawa Tourism.
I got to my Sec Lake site late afternoon and pitched my tent and bug shelter just before dinner. It was early June, so I expected some black flies and mosquitoes to bother me before dusk—and they did! But that’s the norm in early June.
I was up at dawn and had a quick hot cereal and instant black coffee before heading out to meet Colin and Elly at Algonquin Portage Outfitters along Barron Road to organize a shuttle for our day paddle on the lower Barron River. We left a car at the take-out at Black’s Bay and then drove from the outfitters to the put-in at Squirrel’s Rapids.
I’d been to the Squirrel’s Rapids many times, either to finish a canoe trip on the upper Barron River from Grand Lake/Achray Campground or paddle upstream from there to make a much easier trip into just the Barron Canyon itself. It’s an amazing journey, but it can be darn busy at times. So, the lesser known lower section really intrigued me.
Two swifts met us right off the bat, one under the road bridge and another directly after. Nothing to be concerned about except a rock that hit against my bow mid-stream. I was using my 14 feet solo Nova Craft Prospector for the trip which I hadn’t paddled for over a year. I left it in storage after I moved to the Frontenac area, but now it was time to blow off the dust and give it some time on the water once again.
There was no fast-moving water for the rest of the day; just a pine clad shoreline and steep granite cliffs. There is one portage, a 650-metre carry to the right of what’s called First Chute. It’s actually maintained by the staff at Bonnechere Provincial Park and includes a campsite three-quarters the way through, and a privy.
The right side of the river is part of a non-operating park titled Barron River Provincial Park. To the left is owned by the Petawawa Military Base and there is POSITIVELY NO TRESPASSING on that side of the river.
The cliff faces are mute compared to the upper Barron Canyon section but there’s certainly enough to gawk up at; and we shared it with no one else during the entire day. The trip was around 16 kilometres and took us about five leisurely hours to complete.
I then headed back to my backcountry base camp on Sec Lake for a quick dinner and a wee whisky, which happened to spill inside my tent as I went to read a book before bed. Ahhhh!
Another early morning rise so I could meet Colin and Elly for our next Petawawa outdoor adventure. Today, we would paddle the islands out on the Ottawa River, off of Petawawa Point Beach.
I’ve got to be honest. I was a little skeptical about this day. The place they chose to paddle seemed very close to town, about a kilometre east of the main beach. Once we got out on the water, however, I quickly came to realize what a natural hidden gem this place really is. It’s a labyrinth of secluded islands, slightly turbulent water and beach slabs you definitely don’t want to miss.
The big boats stay away for the most part due to the shallow waters, leaving an oasis for canoes, kayaks and SUPs.
My crew promised me old sunken logging ships, eagles and solitude… and boy, did they deliver. They also promised me an afternoon of visiting Petawawa’s best hang outs after a good day paddle to the islands: an ice cream place overlooking the Ottawa River, a brew pub run by an ex-military legend and a locally renowned Lebanese restaurant with amazing Shawarma where the owner dedicated his place to a fallen Canadian solider.
There was an old slogan slapped on the railway house at Petawawa’s Heritage Village. It read:
“Once visited… Never Forgotten.”
Yep, that says it all for me. I’ll never forget my time with the landscape and people of Petawawa, and I’ll be back for sure!
Check out my video of the Petawawa journey on my KCHappyCamper YouTube channel:
