The Happy Camper: Lake Superior’s Denison Falls by Voyageur Canoe
What’s it like having 10 paddlers, two guides and one host (me) crammed in a 36-foot (11 metre) replica voyageur canoe, paddling the biggest freshwater lake in the world? You’d think it would be like being on a bus tour. You’re stuck seated side-by-side with married couples, close friends, complete strangers, confident introverts, part-time historians and storytellers that never stop telling stories.
Well, it’s kind of like that—except the scenery that surrounds the bus is one of the most wild and scenic places on the planet. Hotel stops are replaced by tents pitched on an elongated sandy beach, restaurant stops are replaced by meals of sweet Bannock and syrup eaten on a rock outcrop splashed by massive waves, graffiti-filled bathroom stalls are replaced by thunder boxes perched between spruce and pine and constant banter amongst the participants are replaced by voyageur songs, joyful laughter, pleasant camaraderie and all around good team spirit.
This summer, I was honoured to be given the greatest job ever! I was the host for Naturally Superior Adventures’ voyageur canoe run to Lake Superior’s Denison Falls. This 40-metre cascade, set deep into the wild Superior coastline, was a favourite place of Bill Mason, a renowned Canadian film maker, artist and paddler. The trip was assisted by Algoma Kinniwabi Travel Association and 18 per cent of the revenue was donated towards the Trans Canada Water Trail initiative.
Denison Falls has been on my bucket list for years, as well as all the other paddlers who signed up for this adventure of a lifetime.
We arrived at the outfitters a day early to have a test run in the big canoe. The group paddled up-current on the Michipicoten River, away from the metre-high swells building out on Lake Superior. Anxiety built, but so did the excitement of it all. We practiced our pry stroke, our draw stroke and how to perfectly time each and every power stroke to work as a team and propel the big canoe forward.
Then, we all went to bed after a wee dram of whisky, a good look at the map of our route and a weather check. Some had a cozy bed at Rock Island Lodge, some booked the unique GlamDome overlooking the Lake, others unrolled their sleeping bags inside one of the prospector tents and a couple of us just pitched our tents on the main beach. I preferred the beach; that is, until a massive thunderstorm arrived and lit up the sky above my flimsy nylon dwelling.
Our first day on trip was trial by fire. Once we breached the mouth of the Michipicoten River, the crew was met by large swells and a wall of fog. Our first hour of paddling was a four-kilometre crossing of open water with no view of shoreline all around us. We kept to a bearing of 300 degrees and used the bailing buckets every 20 minutes or so. Oliver, the main guide who steered us at the stern, gave us comforting words and constantly reminded us that this wouldn’t be the first time a voyageur canoe battled the wind and waves of Superior.
The fog worsened but brought calmer waters. The echoing sounds of waves smashing against half-submerged rocks was haunting to say the least. We checked out the abandoned Perk Lighthouse and then stopped for a lunch on White Sands Beach.
The guides had hoped to reach a good campsite at McCoy’s Harbour, but weather was moving in fast. So, we chose to stop at the Minnekona Beach for Night 1, not far past Dore Point. It was a good call. Tarps and tents were set up before the rain started, a smoky fire was lit and the guides cooked up a hardy meal they called Trip Chicken—chicken chunks on rice with a peanut sauce and spring beans. It was delicious.
Before bed, I passed James Raffan’s book Fire in the Bones around so everyone could read a portion of Chapter 1. The author describes heading up the Dog River to check out Denison Falls. He had borrowed the late Bill Mason’s beloved old 16-foot Chestnut Prospector canoe with plans to visit one of his favourite haunts before writing the distinguished Canadian’s story.
The words read around a crackling fire, with the waves of Superior washing ashore, brought a feeling of pure bewitchment for us modern-day voyageurs. Our adventure on what the Ojibwe referred to as “Gitche-Gumee,” meaning “great sea,” had begun.
Check out Part 1 of my video series on the KCHappyCamper YouTube channel.
… To be continued. Stay tuned!
