The Happy Camper: Quebec’s New Dumoine Tote Road Trail

December 11, 2023

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Check out Quebec�s new hiking sensation�the Dumoine Tote Road Trail�perfect for hikers of all kinds.

A new hiking trail was developed along the lower stretch of Quebec�s Dumoine River this past summer�the Dumoine Tote Road Trail. The 26-kilometre linear trail was spawned by well-known paddler and author Wally Schaber, a group of volunteers called the Friends of Dumoine and CPAWS-OV (Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society�Ottawa Valley Chapter). A big celebration was held back on August 26, 2023, where a hundred people gathered in Quebec�s Dumoine Valley, near the village of Rapides-des-Joachims, for the grand opening. And so far, users of the trail are giving it two thumbs up, whether they are day hikers taking on a short section, backcountry backpackers taking on the full length or even canoeists who hike the trail�s length and then paddle back down through the whitewater section.^{Courtesy of the Friends of the Dumoine}

Wally Schaber has loved and paddled the Dumoine for over fifty years. That says a lot, since he�s canoed some other iconic rivers such as the Nahanni, Hood, Coppermine and Mackenzie. He�s also paddled on the river with other notable paddlers, including former prime minister Pierre Trudeau and his canoeing buddy Bill Mason.

The trail is set along the historic logging road that once ran parallel to Dumoine River 150 years ago, snaking through spectacular but decidedly rugged forests, outcrops of Canadian Shield and alongside the whitewater rapids, chutes and glorious calmer stretches of the river.^{J-l Fournier}

The most common way to access it is to drive the rugged but doable Swisha Road (drive slow!) to Grand Chute. The road and camping permits are managed by ZEC Dumoine. Camping is only $5 a night plus $5 CAD per vehicle for parking and a $12 CAD road permit for ZEC Swisha. If you don’t want to drive the rough road, you could simply paddle across the Ottawa River from Driftwood Provincial Park and initiate your trip where the trail connects with the left shore, where Dumoine River enters the Ottawa River.�^{Courtesy of the Friends of the Dumoine}

The trail is relatively flat, except for the first quarter�which is the section that most weekend backpackers attempt. It�s very scenic. The trail ends where the mouth of the Dumoine drains into the mighty Ottawa River. At this point, you either turn back and retrace your steps or organize a boat shuttle across the Ottawa River to Driftwood Provincial Park. Trail markers are red with horseshoes, a tribute to the horses used to haul the loggers� loads along Tote Road. All the thunderboxes are hand-painted by grade school children and placed there by the Friends of Dumoine. Campsite #8, on a section of the river called Red Pine Rapids, is an absolute oasis.^{J-l Fournier}

Take note, you�ll have to ford the Fildegrand River part way along. It�s not a strong current to wade but it can be about thigh-deep in places. Spring floods can be problematic but there are two canoes on opposite banks to help with the crossing.

Check out the Dumoine Tote Road Trail website for more information, and a detailed trail map.