The Magic of a Rocky Mountain Road Trip in Autumn
Fog sits heavy on the evergreen trees. Along Highway 1 from Vancouver to Golden, British Columbia, autumn trees glow like yellow sunshine, peeking out amongst dark forest green conifers. Someone took a shaker of turmeric and coated the leaves in spice, it seems.
The scenery transforms, flame-coloured branches giving way to the ravished remains of wildfires that coat the hillsides in dark ash. Burnt trees stand limbless like forgotten ghosts.
Through the raindrop-blurred windshield, the Canadian Rockies emerge into view. We see the first lines of snow sitting high on the granite peaks as we climb over Rogers Pass.
It’s an eight-hour drive from where we live in the Lower Mainland to the gateway of the Rockies, and I get to sit back and soak in the scenery while Tavis, my partner and photographer, drives the winding roads behind semi-trucks and swerving cars with bald tires. Cell service is spotty as we coast beneath rocky giants. Warm and cozy in the car, with my heated seat on high and a gas station mug of coffee toasting my fingertips, I feel comfortable and safe inside, delighted to witness the world outside from my cocoon.
We lose an hour when we arrive in Golden—the town is on Mountain Time—so we roll the clock on the dash ahead. It’s after 4:30 p.m., and most stores are closed in the quaint town. The rain has let up, so we wander the quiet streets towards the river.
Kicking Horse River is majestic, ice-blue Gatorade, a sharp contrast to the vivid mustard-yellow and ketchup-red leaves that line the shore. You’d think these colours shouldn’t exist in nature. We stroll across the pedestrian bridge before raindrops encourage us to seek shelter and sustenance at a local establishment.
Eleven22 is one of the oldest houses in Golden, converted into a restaurant serving pasta and Asian fusion cuisine. We share the cannelloni before retiring to our loft queen suite at Basecamp Lodge, a timber-framed accommodation with hostel vibes. In the common area, a blazing fire warms plush couches. We play a board game and enjoy a quiet evening, the rain dampening the windows outside. We rest, cozy and calm, before our off-season adventure into Yoho National Park.
Golden is the Gateway
We spend an extra night bookending our Rockies road trip in Golden for a couple of reasons, most notably because—despite being surrounded by national parks—the town of Golden itself is not within one. This means no Park fees for your overnight stay.
It also means waking up early and taking our time travelling the picturesque 27 kilometres into Yoho National Park, rather than arriving late, after dark and exhausted from a day of driving.
When You Go:
Before things kick-off for ski season, the shoulder season offers a relaxed, serene experience in Golden. But there are still opportunities for fun: head to Whitetooth Brewing for a flight of beer; visit the town’s bowling alley for a friendly five-pin game; stretch your skills at one of Golden’s two climbing gyms or catch a film at the two-screen cinema. Before you continue your way to one of the many national parks, stop at Ethos Café for a smooth mocha and a saucy breaky roll.
Things to Know:
- Highway 1 requires winter tires after October 1st.
- After Thanksgiving long weekend, access to trailheads is extremely limited.
- Golden is located on the traditional, unceded territory of the Ktunaxa and Secwepemc peoples and is the chosen home of the Métis Nation Columbia River Society.
- Looking for adventures beyond Golden? Check out this epic experience in Yoho National Park.
