The Most Unique Winter Outdoor Adventures in Charlevoix, Quebec
Snow flies from beneath the huskies’ paws. Seven dogs pull a wooden toboggan, ears flapping, tongues lolling, fluffy tails wagging. I laugh as we turn, throwing my weight into the bend, trying not to tumble into the deep powder once again.
I’m dog sledding in Charlevoix, Quebec, on the first of five epic winter outdoor adventures. Over the next few days, I’ll get my heart pounding with a high dose of adrenaline, use muscles I forgot I had and relax in blissful outdoor spas in this welcoming region of Quebec.
Dog Sledding
Siberian huskies, Alaskan huskies and Canadian Inuit Dogs jump and yip in delight at our arrival to Le Reine et le Millionaire.
From the moment we arrive, we feel like part of the team. My boyfriend Tavis and I help harness the dogs, learning their names and positions: there are intelligent lead dogs in the front, temperate team dogs in the middle and strong wheel dogs in the back. After a quick lesson, Tavis takes the driver’s “seat,” standing on two skis at the back of our sled. I bundle up in the basket to be carried along as a passenger princess.
Views stretch across thick blankets of snow as the sled dogs pull us forward. We follow the guide into tree-lined trails, bounding over the snow at six or seven kilometres an hour. It’s incredible to watch these dogs leap and dash in front of us—they dance in excitement. This is where they belong.
While navigating a slight descent, our lack of experience causes us to be pulled off course, and the sled topples sideways. Laughing and coated in snow, we regain control and swap drivers—it’s my turn to mush (a term derived from the French word marche, meaning “to walk”).
At times, we have to help the dogs by running behind the sled and pushing it up hills. It’s exhausting—but this only adds to the enjoyment of being part of the pack.
After the adventure, we are treated to downtime to play with and snuggle the dogs. I’m surprised by how mushy they are—muzzles nuzzle into my arms, tails tickle my legs and exposed bellies beg to be rubbed. This could be a very positive experience for someone who is afraid of dogs—the big four-legged bons chiens are sweet, loving and cuddly.
Ziplining to Via Ferrata
“Via Ferrata” means “iron path”: it’s a climbing route with metal rungs and a permanently affixed cable to make it safe and more accessible to navigate the sides of cliffs without full rock-climbing gear or experience.
Tavis and I are outfitted with harnesses and helmets at the Projet Vertical office. We follow the other participants to the roof of the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu to start the experience with a 400-metre zipline.
I’m not a big fan of heights, so my heart starts racing like a sled dog as I watch others soar through the air. Then, it’s my turn. I whisper, “Oh, mon Dieu,” and step off the roof.
Whooping and screaming quickly turns into unbridled laughter. I can see ice chunks floating in the half-frozen St Lawrence River far below me.
After flying through the sky, we lock our carabiners into the Via Ferrata safety cable. As we descend a steep cliff, my boots scramble for purchase on rocks and fixed metal handles along the icy, snow-crusted surface. I maneuver along the precarious route: balancing on skinny wooden beams, sidestepping over slippery rocks and tiptoeing across tightropes like a funambulist.
In total, we travel a mere 500 horizontal metres along a cliff face with jaw-dropping views of the icy blue river and open air beneath us. Even though I’m out of my comfort zone, I feel safe while experiencing the unique thrill and rush of hanging off a cliff face on this assisted climb.
Winter Hiking
At Parc national des Grands-Jardins, Tavis and I rent two pairs of bois de glace from the Visitor’s Centre.We tug the crampons over our waterproof winter hiking boots and hit the 4.7-kilometre La Chouenne Trail, which is named after a community currency in Charlevoix.
The trail snakes through birch trees with cream-coloured bark. The teeth of our microspikes dig into the steadily steep terrain as we traverse deep snow along a well-carved out, hard-packed path. Snow falls like sprinkles from the sky.
We climb the steepest section of switchbacks near the end. Our effort is rewarded with sweeping views of the magnificent landscape: snow-dusted farmland fades into forested areas in the foreground.
At the summit, the wind howls. My jacket flaps open as I stand on the exposed rockface, where even snow has abandoned its post. I spin, squinting at the stunning views that spread out in every direction, creating an infinite panorama.
We retreat to a sheltered rock to eat our lunch, which we’d picked up at Al Dente in Baie-Saint-Paul that morning. We munch on roast beef sandwiches and indulge in homemade chocolate pie before heading back down the trail.
Nordic Spas
After an adventure, there’s nothing better than soaking your sore muscles in a steaming hot tub, unwinding in a rejuvenating steam room, relaxing in a sauna or awakening your soul in an icy cold plunge pool.
Quebec does Nordic Spas right. We start our experience at Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix. With a view of the farm and resident highland cattle, the hot and cold pools are flanked by a firepit and bucolic lounge area. Indoors, you’ll find a snow fountain—similar to a water fountain, a silver spout spits out crushed ice—eucalyptus-infused steam room and dry Finnish sauna.
At Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, there are large indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs. The newest addition is my favourite: a wood barrel dry sauna and cold plunge pool.
At Repère Boréal, you’ll enter a dreamy magical forest. Eight hot tubs are spaced out between trees with gold-hued hanging lights, creating a romantic and intimate atmosphere. The small tubs offer privacy—couples can soak together, then visit the central sauna and risk a frigid blast in the freezing cold pool for a healing hydrotherapy circuit.
Sledding
To cap off our adventure, we zoom down a 7.5-kilometre groomed run on specialty wooden toboggans at Le Massif de Charlevoix—the longest dedicated sledding track in North America.
After a lunch of vegan chili in the ski lodge, we head towards the luge reception where we’re fitted with helmets, handed sleds and instructed to try a test run.
The sleds are made from white oak with Teflon skis. Each sled has a name—mine is Tiguidou, a Québécois expression meaning, “It’s all good.” My nerves settle down slightly.
Kids as young as 10 can enjoy this adventure, with the oldest guests in their 80s. Speeds can reach up to 50 kilometres an hour, depending on the snow conditions, which change every day.
We ride a cat ski to a chalet to start our downhill sledding experience. I pull my sled to the launching point, waiting at the back of the crowd of Quebecois, Ontarians, Americans and Brazilians.
And we’re off! Using my feet as brakes, I slow my rapid descent and attempt to steer. When approaching a curve, I lean my weight to turn.
While others crash into barriers and bail off their sleds, I miraculously hit every turn and find myself laughing in glee as the wind whips across my bare cheeks. Feeling brave, I look up to enjoy the views: a silver river, snow-dusted islands, tree-covered hills.
Halfway down the run, we stop at a cabin for hot chocolate. I excitedly share my experience with Tavis. We both feel giddy and excited—like kids playing in the snow.
During the final descent, I slow to a stop at a narrow hairpin turn, before the straight run to the bottom of the hill. Tavis picks up speed and wizzes past me to the end.
How to Get There
Fly to Quebec City and rent a car at the airport. Charlevoix is 95 kilometres away (a 75-minute drive). If you have the time, bookend your stay with a night or two in Quebec City. Old Quebec’s streets are reminiscent of a European village, with winding cobblestone streets. For a mouthwatering dinner, order the ham at La Bûche Restaurant. For dessert, try traditional maple taffy. Splurge for a night in the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac for a cherished lifelong memory.
Where to Stay
Sleep in a Shipship, a recycled shipping container-turned-cabin, at Repère Boréal. This private and unique accommodation features a kitchenette, a floor-to-ceiling window next to the comfy bed and an outdoor fire pit.
For a laid-back experience, stay at Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix and visit the on-site farm. For a family-friendly stay, Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu has everything you need for a couple of nights right on-site.
Where to Eat
Le Bercail serves scrumptious pizza made with fresh, local ingredients. Order the Charlevoisienne, which is topped with pesto from their gardens, and drizzle their in-house smoked hot pepper maple syrup on a slice. Thank me later.
For a special treat, order a traditional fondue box at Ah La Vache! The Swiss owner has been preparing cheese fondues for 25 years at a small bistro on rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste. Now take-away only, it is the perfect treat to bring to your cabin at Repère Boréal. Breakfast food is available for purchase at the accommodation’s reception, most of which is locally produced—including the eggs, which are plucked from the chicken coops on site.
What If I Don’t Speak French?
As a Vancouverite, I wasn’t sure what it would be like travelling in Quebec outside of bigger cities like Montreal and Quebec City with my limited French. To my surprise, everyone we encountered spoke fluent English. As Anglophones, we felt warmly welcomed. Of course, it’s always respectful and appreciated when you attempt to speak French.
Here are two important phrases to know:
Parlez-vous anglais? -> “Do you speak English?”
Je ne parle pas français -> “I don’t speak French.”
