Urban Backpacking: Adventure in the Heart of Edmonton
Nothing compares to the adventure of a backpacking trip in a remote wilderness setting.
But trips like this require time, experience and resources that can be a barrier for many. Adventure, however, is scalable, and it may be closer than you think!
When my nine-year-old son expressed an interest in trying out backpacking for the first time this summer, we decided a test run close to home would be best. We live in Edmonton, so we started exploring the idea of an urban backpacking trip. If we could make it work, this could offer a quick and easy getaway with relatively low risk and lighter packs. It would also be an exciting way to experience our city from a new perspective.
There is (micro) adventure to be found everywhere, and Edmonton is no exception. As North America’s longest stretch of urban parkland, the North Saskatchewan River Valley stretches across the heart of the city and boasts over 20 parks and 160 kilometres of maintained trails. It also includes the Whitemud Creek Ravine, an important ecological corridor and popular destination for nature-based recreation. The ravine’s densely forested slopes and scenic viewpoints make it easy to forget you’re in the city. Edmonton’s only river valley campground, Rainbow Valley, is also located here, so it was an obvious choice for our trip.
After studying the City of Edmonton trail maps, we planned a route that we could complete over two shorter days, at a relaxed pace, in early June. Our final route was roughly 11 kilometres—a gentle intro to backpacking that left plenty of time for exploring and trailside shenanigans. Whitemud Ravine has a prolific number of entry points, so you can certainly create your own adventure as far as route planning goes. We opted to begin at Larch Sanctuary—a less developed portion of the ravine with a network of informal trails for exploration.
We took public transit to reach a trailhead at the Larch Park Community Garden, where we immediately descended on steep, narrow trails and were rewarded with views of Whitemud Creek and its abundant waterfowl. “Isn’t this incredible, mom?” my son remarked as we dropped into the bottom of the ravine where the trees and bird calls drowned out the sounds of the city above.
Over the next couple hours, we meandered through scenic ravine trails, one freeway underpass, and a creative mix of city sidewalks, utility corridors and multi-use paths. The northern portion of Whitemud Ravine trails is wider and more developed, with additional amenities like wayfinding signage, benches and viewing platforms. The main trail is for pedestrian use only, and it is well used by neighbouring residents.
After seven kilometres and roughly two and a half hours of hiking, we arrived at Rainbow Valley Campground. Campsites can be reserved online at $48/night for a non-powered site. While some sites have a scenic creekside location, overall, they are close together with little tree cover. We lucked out with a smaller, more private site that included a picnic table and raised BBQ firepit. We spent an enjoyable evening exploring Whitemud Creek, reflecting on the day’s adventure around the fire and observing the many activities in the campground.
While you may find solitude on the trails, Rainbow Valley Campground is a hub of activity that includes an aerial park, driving range and mini-golf course, so don’t stay here expecting a quiet wilderness experience. It’s best to just enjoy the indoor plumbing and other amenities you will be dreaming about in the backcountry soon enough! The campground was quiet overnight, though the freeway is close by, so earplugs might be a smart choice if you’re a light sleeper.
After a quick breakfast the next morning, we headed for home—a four-kilometre hike through ravine trails and up a steep hill to the University of Alberta farm. A short hike through these agricultural lands will take you to the nearest transit hub at South Campus Station. We opted to walk home, as it felt like a novel experience for a backpacking trip, and it kept us motivated in spite of sore shoulders and weary feet. There was much celebration when we reached our doorstep, and with newfound confidence, we were already plotting our next trip beyond city limits.
For those who are curious about the sport but lack experience, urban backpacking is an excellent way to learn when the stakes are low. There is so much more that cities could do to support this kind of nature-based, urban adventure. Thoughtful connections between trail systems and amenities at key locations (i.e., washrooms) are a must. Quality, affordable camping opportunities that are safe, scenic and accessible by active transportation and transit would help ensure these experiences are accessible to more people. Edmonton has all the right ingredients here, and we thoroughly enjoyed our micro-adventure in Whitemud Ravine.
Though urban backpacking may be a niche activity, it’s a great reminder that adventure can be found anywhere, and with a little planning and enthusiasm, you need only step off your doorstep to find it.
