The Happy Camper: Southwestern Ontario Camping Road Tour (Part 2)
Here’s part 2 of my big camping road trip of Southwestern Ontario!
Wheatley Provincial Park
A good majority of campers use Wheatley as a base camp for exploring the neighbouring Point Pelee National Park. I’ve done the same thing in the past. But this time we kept to exploring Wheatley and all it has to offer.
The park is nestled in the corner of Chatham-Kent region, along the shores of Lake Erie, about an hour’s drive of the Detroit/Windsor border. It also sits on the same latitude as Northern California—giving it a warmer climate and atmosphere.
The campsites are my style: set in a beautifully forested area, they have a more rugged and private feel to them. The Boosey Creek campground section is my favourite for tenting. It’s also a great place to access a secluded coastal estuary, where you can paddle through a southern-style Carolinian forest. There are two paddle loops through Boosey Creek to Sugar Creek, approximately 3.2 kilometres.
The park also has two short hiking trails. They’re easy hikes and a good chance to view the richness of the Carolinian forest of oak, hickory, Tulip, Sassafras, chestnut and Black Gum trees. My preference, however, is to walk along the beach. Mother Nature has taken her tole over a large chunk of it. The rising waters of Lake Erie—due to climate change—has caused severe erosion. At this point you even have to walk to the shoreline, crossing a weathered boardwalk/bridge. The old road has been washed out. The damage has upset some beach goers, but to me it’s a surreal vista of gnarled uprooted trees being bashed with rolling waves off of Lake Erie.
And yep, there was another fish place to try out. Taylor’s Chip Truck in the town of Wheatley. I’d recommend the fresh Lake Erie walleye dinner. It’s delicious.
Port Burwell Provincial Park
Kristine and I went into town before making camp to check out the historic Port Burwell Lighthouse and have ice cream at the well-known Simply Scoops. The lighthouse is one of the oldest and most noteworthy, constructed in the 1840s. I knew of the lighthouse and the fantastic panoramic view you can get of the town and harbourfront. I also knew about the connecting Marine Museum that houses some cool marine artifacts related to the history of Lake Erie. But I knew nothing about the decommissioned five story high, 90 meters (295 feet), cold war submarine parked nearby. Unfortunately, Covid closed the tours of the The HMCS OJIBWA while we were there. We’re definitely going back. I think there’s a good story to be heard.
It’s a nice campground at Port Burwell and it’s well maintained; and the only provincial park on our tour where we saw park wardens walking around and checking up and helping out the campers. Our site was set amongst some pine, shaded and there was a cool breeze coming off the lake to help with the constant heat wave we were having to contend with.
There’s a small one kilometre hiking trail titled the Ravine Creek Trail. It’s an interpretive path that keeps to a ravine and woodlot and features a self-guided brochure showing the local geology, flora and fauna. A better option, in my opinion, is the trail from the campground to the beach. You can drive to the beach if you like, but the trail is a better option. The Beach Trail is two kilometres return and has a lookout point that gives you a nice view of Lake Erie and the beach below. The pathway traverses a 20-metre bluff.
Komoka Provincial Park
We had a bonus enroute. We were able to book two nights at Port Burwell Provincial Park. That allowed us to check out a day-use park close by. Komoka Provincial Park is situated just south of London, Ontario.
The original plan was to paddle the section of the Thames River, a Canadian Heritage River, that flushes from Komoka to the hamlet of Delaware; probably the best stretch of the Thames to paddle. A flash flood the day before changed things. We went for a hike instead.
From the parking lot there’s a network of trails, varying from length and difficulty. We chose a section that kept close to the river and its valley. It’s definitely not to be missed. The Carolinian trees here are massive and the diversity of plants and wildlife are beyond impressive.
We had a guide. The previous owner of Nova Craft Canoe (now retired), and good friend, Tim Millar. He now either walks the Komoka trails or paddles/fishes the river in his retirement. I’m jealous.
He shared his special places with us: a deep valley prior to the river valley, a massive oak tree he stops at and contemplates life at during every walk, a couple of stream crossings we gathered and filtered cool clear water from, and a wooden bench overlooking the Thames with a commemorative plaque placed on it for his son who passed away at the age of 17.
It was a special day for me. I like Tim; and I knew nothing of his son’s plaque—and how magnificent the forest is that surrounds it.
And of course, on the way back to our campsite at Burwell we stopped at Komoka’s hot spots: Annie’s Chocolates, Union Pub Company, Gingerbread House Bakery and the amazing BJ’s Country Market.
Long Point Provincial Park
Our last night on the provincial park’s section along Lake Erie had to be Long Point. I’ve spent a lot of time here in my younger days. Not hanging out at the beach and watching girls. I banded birds, like all the cool nature nut kids back then.
In the mid-eighties I had a contract job in raptor rehabilitation and bird banding for the Conservation Authorities. That took me to a lot of places throughout southwestern Ontario to capturer, band, study, and conserve thousands of migratory birds. The most meaningful were the turkey vultures, hawks and owl. They were somewhat docile and interesting to report on. The more bothersome—but intriguing—were the evil chick-a-dees that would peck and bite at my pinkies any chance they could get. It was an experience I’ll never forget. I learned so much about species identification and about the philosophy of nature conservation.
What a privilege I had interviewing the bird banders now working at the Long Point Bird Observatory. It was definitely like going back in time. Not much had changed. The ethics of why they were banding and monitoring the birds, the countless hours spent doing so and the camaraderie between workmates sharing the same vision. I had good memories and a good sleep that night. Of course, not before having another routine fish dinner; this time at the local Old Cut Boat Dock and Chip Ship.
We had yet other severe thunderstorm that night, just prior to me filming a nice slow-motion clip of the beach and Lake Erie waves rolling in. Setting up our rain tarp had become routine, just like fish dinners. Kristine and I, and I think the dogs, were having such good times; and I was truly gaining a sense of familiarity to the region—a place that introduced me, and taught me, to love nature so much.
Part 3 will be out soon. This time we head inland and camp at a number Conservation Authority campground—a true hidden gem in southwestern Ontario.
