You Can Go River Surfing in Calgary
I’ve tried surfing on a windy, deserted beach in Cornwall, in a stormy inlet of the Pacific Coast in Tofino and in the warm waves off Honolulu, but I was surprised to hear that there’s a surfing community in downtown Calgary.
Yes, that’s right, you can surf in the middle of the city! Surfing is an exhilarating sport and an act of mindfulness for many, but without a nearby ocean, city residents might think their opportunities to hang ten are relegated to a beach vacation once a year. However, in Calgary, you can actually river surf on the glacier-fed Bow.
I cycled down to Harvie Passage, named after the Harvie family—locals who contributed a significant portion to the rehabilitation project which was completed in 2011. The passage has two channels, North and South, and had to be closed between 2013-2018 after sustaining major damage following a historic flood. The North Channel doesn’t offer any good waves and is best avoided due to the significant dangers. However, the South portion provides lots of low waves perfect for beginner surfers, kayakers and those in tubes to enjoy the river. There are large boulders on the bank where spectators or picnickers can sit and watch as people take their turns on the waves.
Come to Watch, Stay and Surf
It’s here that I met Andrea Juska and Flora Lee, avid river surfers who regularly ride the wave at Harvie Passage in the centre of Calgary. The ratio of spectators to surfers is 30 to 1, so watching the lineup at the rapid is pure entertainment even if you’re not brave enough to give it a go yourself. On the day that we met, Lee had a friend arriving shortly to try river surfing for the first time. She said that many people come and watch and ask questions before trying the wave out. “There’s a lot of interest. People will ask how they can begin and sometimes they just jump in and try, I’ll say okay, well, here’s my board you can give it a quick go and see if you like it.”
The surfing community here is notoriously friendly and supportive, especially to newbies. I watched a conveyor belt of bodies wading out to give the wave a try from kids on boogie boards having the time of their lives, adults trying surfing for the first time and experts like Juska and Lee. Each surfer received the same whoops of delight and applause from those watching on the riverbank.
Be prepared for a learning curve, even if you’re already an experienced ocean surfer, as river surfing is much harder. “Once you catch the wave in the ocean, it just carries you,” Lee explains. “But with a standing wave, you have to stay at the perfect spot, so you don’t dunk or get kicked out. You have to find the perfect pocket.” Juska agrees, and even after a decade of practice says, “It’s a different movement for popping up and getting onto a wave because the wave is static, it’s not moving forward and back, it’s just in one place. It’s a very humbling sport, I am still mastering it.”
One benefit of surfing on Harvie Passage is that you don’t need to paddle as much as with ocean surfing. In fact, you simply line up, wait your turn and hop on a rapid.
Lee displays an enviable talent for balance and weight control on the board as she stands up and rides the static wave for longer than any other person taking their turn.
Surf Year-round
Harvie Passage is incredibly popular in the summer but has somehow still managed to retain a certain charm due to the lack of facilities. You won’t find changing rooms or food stands, for example, but there are plans underway through the Harvie Passage Facility Enhancement Plan to create amenities here, including a possible retail outlet where people could rent surfing equipment and perhaps even get lessons.
If you really get into river surfing, you can also drive an hour from the city to surf the Kananaskis River. Home to two waves known as the Santa Claus and The Mountain, these spots are challenging and best left to the professionals or at least seasoned surfers.
However, in the next couple of years, you’ll be able to try out the new adjustable wave which allows for all-year surfing, even in the bitter winter months. Although Juska says that for her personally, it can sometimes be too cold to surf, “I have a -5 cut off!” she says. Lee agrees, adding, “After 30 minutes, it’s borderline hypothermia!”
This multi-year project, a first of its kind, has already begun and will lead to an explosion in the sport’s popularity according to Neil Egsgard, president of the Alberta River Surfing Association. The project promises to deliver excellent surf and kayak waves all year including during high flows.
Ready, Set, Surf!
If you’re all set to try river surfing, you’ll need a few provisions including:
- A wetsuit
- Booties, mitts and hood
- A helmet
- Surfboard (don’t use an ankle leash for river surfing due to drowning risk)
- Lifejacket
The Alberta River Surfing Association can help visitors find events and provides basic information on resources and tips to learn how to surf. They recommend Bow Valley SUP for equipment rentals and surf lessons.
Where Else to Surf
There are other river city surfing spots across the country including:
Ottawa: Surf the Ottawa River on the Dessert Wave, a year-round surfing spot with views of the downtown cityscape. Over on the Gatineau side, the Sewer Wave (or poo pipe as it’s called by locals) comes to life from March to October, and yes, it’s formed in part by the flow of a sewer outlet.
Montreal: Surf in Montreal from May to October at the School Wave, perfect for beginners, or venture downstream to the iconic Habitat 67 for a more exhilarating ride. For the ultimate challenge, try conquering the Lachine Rapids, an experience for adrenaline junkies.
